Fox fur has been used by men in the UK throughout history for practical, social, and symbolic reasons.

Medieval period and early modern period (1066 – 1700)

First during the medieval period, the population was using fox fur for its natural properties. The fur's warmth, wind-proofing, and water-resistance made it a highly valued material.

Archaeological findings in Hertford indicate that foxes were used for their fur during the medieval period. Fox bones from tails and feet, parts typically kept after the pelts were taken, suggest deliberate use of their fur.

By the 1300s, fur was so luxurious that sumptuary laws regulated its use. The purpose of this legislation was to regulate the use of fur, as the Crown wished to authorise access to certain types of fur for certain social classes only. High-status furs like ermine, marten, squirrel and leopard were restricted for the aristocracy, while fox, beaver or hare fur was more accessible to the middle classes, the lower classes were limited to skin form goats, sheep or wolf fur.

Fox fur’s variety in colour, red, black, grey, and white, added to its appeal, especially for winter clothing. This type of fur was appreciated for its variety of colours, thickness and length.

Martin Wallen, in his historical studies, notes that prior to the mid-18th century, fur—fox included—was sometimes associated with “barbarian” or primitive attire, limiting its acceptance among the elite in certain contexts.

18th Century

During the 18th century, fur trapping was dominated by beaver pelts, which were in high demand for hat-making in Europe. Foxes were also trapped for their fur, but the public preferred beaver, otter, and marten furs.

By 1785, fox fur had gained a foothold in Western fashion, marking its transition from a practical material to a fashionable one. Fur trappers sought red, silver, and arctic fox pelts for their distinctive colours, and the trade in fox fur became a growing industry in both Europe and North America.

19th Century

Trapping foxes was difficult due to their elusive nature, so fox fur farming was born. By 1890, Charles Dalton and Robert Oulton invented fox fur farming in Canada, establishing controlled breeding of silver foxes to meet growing demand.

Fox fur became a key part of Victorian fashion. It was commonly used for coats, gloves, neck-warmer and hats, valued for its warmth and durability. The coats being the less affordable items accessible to a minority. The animal was kept whole with the paws, the tail and the head.

20th Century

Fox fur reached its peak popularity during the 1920s and 1930s. Whole fox pelts, complete with heads, paws, and tails, were draped over shoulders or fashioned into capes.

This era marked the height of decorative fur use, with red fox and silver fox among the most sought-after varieties.

In the 1960s, fox fur remained a luxury item, alongside other popular furs like blond mink and leopard. Silver-striped fox and red fox were particularly fashionable during this period.

The most popular kinds of fur in the 1960s (known as luxury fur) were blond mink, white rabbit, yellow leopard, jaguar or cheetah, black panther, silver striped fox and red fox. It was common for ladies to wear a matching hat.

By the late 20th century, the use of fox fur, like other natural furs, declined significantly due to ethical concerns and the rise of animal rights activism.